Thursday, May 27, 2010

No More Rocking

Last week we moved the stabilizer jacks to the outer edge of our MH. This stopped the rocking during windy days. We are very pleased with the outcome. Although we haven’t had 65+ MPH winds we did have a few days of 50+ MPH winds and didn’t have any rocking motion in the MH.

We checked all the jack contact points to be sure the beefing up the areas held up. No bending or crimping was found. In our opinion our stabilizing of the MH was a success.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Stop The Rocking

Our Motor Home doesn’t have leveling jacks so when the wind blows our MH rocks back and forth. There are several options however few fit within our budget.

The option we chose were screw jacks that can withhold 6,000 each. We first placed them under the MH frame at each of the wheel locations. This helped somewhat until we had 65 MPH winds. The location of the jacks caused the center of gravity to be smaller making the MH feel as if it would tip over with every gust of wind beyond 65 MPH.


Move the jacks to the edge of the MH. This would require beefing up the areas of contact of the jacks. We purchased 2 inch channel iron and 1/4 inch flat iron to do the beefing. This would prevent the areas of contact from crimping or bending.


Four 8"x9"x4" Concrete Blocks (cost 10.58)
Set of Four 6,000 lb. Jacks (cost $38.00)
4' Channel Iron 16" 1/4" Flat iron (cost $10.87)

2 inch channel iron inside each bay above the contact point of the jacks.zzz 003

4”x4”x1/4” flat iron screwed to bay frame below installed channel irons. Jacks contact points.

zzz 002Jack and 8”x9”x4” concrete block.

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Center of gravity moved towards the outer edge of the Motor Home. zzz

The object is not to lift the Motor Home off the ground but rather stabilize the MH against wind gust that caused rocking of the RV.

Monday, May 17, 2010

A Ghost In Our RV?

Last Wednesday (May 12th) we decided to replace the faucet in our shower. The old one had gotten to the point that it had just two settings, full blast and off. The access panel made replacing the faucet child's play being very easy to reach both hot and cold connections. The whole job of replacing the faucet was less than twenty minutes not counting the time it took to go to town and purchase the faucet.

Having the new faucet on site our first step was to turn off the water coming into the RV and open the water access panel for the shower. Next was to open the lowest faucet to drain water from the lines. The shower faucet was the lowest drain point so there was a small amount of water that was in the piping when we disconnected the pipes from the faucet. One sheet of paper towel was all that was needed to dry up the spill out. We removed the two locking nuts that held the old faucet in place, removed the two rubber gaskets, removed the old faucet and cleaned any gunk that was under the old faucet.

We were now ready to install the new faucet which means reversing the steps used in removing the faucet. First was to place the new faucet in the shower, slip the new rubber gaskets into place and screw on the locking nuts. Next is connecting the hot and cold water pipes. These pipes are plastic as well as the faucet pipes and the connectors which means you only need to screw them on hand tight. Turned the water back on coming into the RV, open faucet to remove any air in the pipes, inspect the pipe connections to insure no leaks and close the access panel.

A Ghost?

Last night on our way to bed we found water on the floor next to the shower access panel. What the heck is going on. We removed the access panel to find water shooting out from the cold water pipe connection. After dashing outside to turn off the water coming into the RV we were able to inspect where the water was coming from. The connection which had been hand tightened was loose and almost completely off of the faucet. 

We retightened the loose connection, dried up all the water, turned the water back on coming into the RV, inspected the connections again for leaks and closed the access panel.